Madagascar, the RN7
From the capital to the south-west coast, National Road 7 crosses the highlands, the forests of Ranomafana and the canyons of Isalo. The road’s story, stage by stage, from the sources.
The RN7 leaves Antananarivo and runs down to Toliara on the south-west coast, at kilometre 923 on its last marker. It is one of the country’s most important roads, relatively well maintained, and links most of the towns of the central highlands.
Many travellers rent a car and work their way down over a few days; you can also catch a taxi-brousse from any of the major towns on the road. Every stage links to its activity sheet, where each fact cites its source.
Antananarivo and the hill of Ambohimanga
Before heading south, the royal hill of Ambohimanga, about 24 km north-east of the capital, is the best-preserved monument of the precolonial Merina Kingdom, a World Heritage Site since 2001.
The highlands, to Fianarantsoa
The road passes Ambatolampy at kilometre 69, then Antsirabe at kilometre 170, and Ambositra. Fianarantsoa comes at kilometre 412: allow about 9 hours from the capital, depending on Tana’s traffic jams.
Fianarantsoa is also where the FCE train leaves for Manakara, on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 7 a.m., a slow journey of 12 to 24 hours.
The Ranomafana forest
Two hours by taxi-brousse from Fianarantsoa, Ranomafana park protects over 41,600 hectares of tropical rainforest, created in 1991 after the discovery of the golden bamboo lemur. Its name, “rano mafana”, means “hot water”.
Ambalavao and the Anja reserve
At kilometre 462, Ambalavao holds Madagascar’s largest zebu market, on Wednesday and Thursday mornings. 13 km to the south, Anja Community Reserve is home to about 300 ring-tailed lemurs, used to visitors.
Ranohira and the canyons of Isalo
Ranohira, at kilometre 697, is the gateway to Isalo park, where wind and water have carved the sandstone into canyons up to 200 m deep. A local guide is required; guides and porters are found in the village.
On to Toliara
After Ilakaka and Sakaraha, the road reaches Toliara, its terminus on the south-west coast. Handicrafts sold in town come from Ambositra and Fianarantsoa: better to buy them on the way.
Sources · 11
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